Traditional towns of Chiapas: from amber and weaving to the delicious chocolate

The most sought-after adventures in Chiapas are located in the deep jungle, but the small colonial towns are appealing in their own right, and can be an excellent base to explore the rest of the region, relax or learn more about the rich history of Southern Mexico. Below is a selection of our top five favourite towns in Chiapas.

San Cristobal de las Casas: a highlands haven

When the Spaniards relocated the provincial capital to San Cristobal in the 19^th century, they were after a cool, pleasant environment from which to rule the State of Chiapas – and they could not have chosen a better place. With its well preserved and unique colonial architecture, San Cristobal offers a welcoming cultural retreat from the pre-Columbian and natural riches of Chiapas.

The town boasts numerous museums, showcasing chocolate production (where one can also try and buy delicious local chocolate) and explaining traditional medicine and medicinal plants. Some jewellery stores also have a small museum, in addition to selling intricate amber and jade jewellery. If you are short on time, the most interesting stops are Museo Mesoamericano del Jade with its own store selling beautiful jade jewellery, Museo de Medicina Maya to learn about the Mayan traditions, and the Kakaw Museum for the most delicious chocolate in town. It is interesting to stop in one of the numerous amber stores and explore their little museums – look out for a unique deep red-colored Chiapas amber that is hard to find anywhere else.

While walking among the boutique stores, with some of theme being inspired by the Zapatista uprising, it is worthwhile to stop for a moment to fully take in the following colonial architecture: the distinctive yellow façade of the Cathedral, the detailed Santo Domingo convent next to an extensive crafts market, the red tower of Del Carmen, and if time permits, the smaller El Cerrito church atop the hill of San Cristobalito which offers pretty views of the whole town.

There are numerous traditional and imported restaurants along the streets to restore your strength while exploring the town – try the regional sweet drink called pozoll that comes in numerous flavours. But as a snack, buy some fresh macadamia from the sellers on the street or head to Kakao Nativa, a regional alternative to Starbucks coffee that prepares chocolate drinks with local cacao (very addictive!).

San Cristobal is also a popular base for daytrips around Chiapas and its relaxed vibe will tempt visitors to stay for much longer than originally planned.

Zinacantán: weavers and flowers

A short 30-minute drive from San Cristobal de las Casas, Zinacantan is one of several traditional Tztozil (a Mayan language) speaking villages in the Chiapas highlands. The place is renown for its intricate and colourful textiles and women wearing sublime purple flower-embroidered shawls. Visitors can stop at one of the local houses that is weaving their own designed textiles where the indigenous women will demonstrate weaving techniques and make traditional tortillas on a comal. Afterwards, it is expected that the visitor should buy at least one of their products – they are one of a kind and make beautiful souvenirs. Zinacantan is also famous in the entire Mexico for its flowers: as you approach the village, you will see several greenhouses scattered in the hills surrounding the village.

San Juan Chamula: old traditions and folklore

One of the most unique villages in Chiapas, and perhaps in all of Mexico, is San Juan Chamula where Maya beliefs are merged with Christian rituals. In the main square stands the San Juan church with a beautifully decorated entrance of Mayan flowers. Its inside will surprise you. The pleasant aroma of pine needles spread all over the floor masks the smell of chicken sacrifices and the removing of one’s evil spirits through burping. And next to the walls stand statues of different saints that look quite different from what most visitors are used to. Not far from the central square, stands another church in ruins and a colorful graveyard of multi-colored crosses, with each color representing the age of the deceased. The town’s population still wears traditional clothing – for women it is especially unique with fluffy black skirts made of wool, while men wear a traditional white poncho with a machete or even a gun behind a belt. Unfortunately, the town is wary of foreigners who have made fun of the village and their traditions in the past, so photography is only permitted outside the church. In addition, portrait photography is strictly prohibited and can even land you in jail.

Tip: This is one of the rare villages that still celebrates the five lost days of the Maya calendar with a pompous carnival. It is possible to visit the festival, but photography is prohibited.

Comitan: the cradle of Chiapas

Highly reminiscent of San Cristobal de las Casas (but with only a fraction of its visitors), filled with charmingly colourful colonial architecture, Comitan is one of the cultural hotspots of Chiapas as it was the birthplace of eminent poets and politicians – including the leader of the Chiapas independence movement. While the town does not offer as many tourist amenities as San Cristobal, it is a perfect alternative for those seeking to immerse in local culture. In addition, it is a great base for exploring the nearby waterfalls of El Chiflon and the fairytale-like Montebello Lakes.

Chiapa de Corzo: the town with a crown

Chiapa de Corzo lasted only one month as the provincial capital before the Spaniards decided to relocate to a cooler location. While not as picturesque as San Cristobal, Chiapa de Corzo’s highlight is literally a crown built out of bricks in the main square. The structure represents the crown of Isabel la Catolica, the queen of Spain that sponsored Columbus’s expedition to America; the built crown even has a carved representation of diamonds. Next to the crown grows old La Pochota tree around which, according to the beliefs, Spaniards founded the town. The nearby 16^th century Santo Domingo church is one of the best preserved in Chiapas and offers a lovely panoramic view of the Grijalva River from its bell-tower; it also houses the biggest bells in the country. The main reason to come to Chiapa de Corzo, however, is the Parachico Festival in January which combines traditional dancing with masks, religious rituals, and abundant food.