Oecusse, the western coastal exclave of Timor-Leste, is surrounded by Indonesia from three sides. Getting here represents the ultimate adventure. It can be reached by a flight or a ferry from the capital Dili, or by land through the Indonesian West Timor. But due to its isolation, it is easily overlooked and receives only a small portion of tourists that enter Timor-Leste, which is already the least visited country of Southeast Asia. However, such isolation resulted in the preservation of the traditional lifestyles in lopo houses (houses with no walls) and almost untouched beaches and landscapes, making Oecusse a unique travel experience.
Exploring the colonial history
Oecusse was the first area that the Portuguese landed on in Timor-Leste. The site is today decorated with a modest landmark showing a galleon and the first Portuguese settlers. Recently, rumors started spreading that the statues walk during the night, so all of them had to be covered in an effort to prevent their movement. Any local guide will be more than happy to show the visitors the assumed footsteps left behind by the statues. This site is also the center of two important ceremonies that occur each year marking the day of the Portuguese landing and the Timorese Independence Day.
Walking deeper into the streets of the coastal capital of Oecusse district, Pante Macassar, brings even more Portuguese colonial remains in sight, from the old customs house to the local church and other relics scattered around this small town.
The rugged landscapes
Entering Oecusse by land is a surreal experience with drastically changing landscape on every step, from the relatively flat rice fields of Indonesian West Timor to sharp, rough mountains in Oecusse. There are numerous hiking options here, all leading to beautiful overlooks or waterfalls – but a guide is necessary if you don’t want to get lost. Through the mountains, there are scattered traditional villages built using centuries-old techniques. However, villagers are wary of visitors, so one must respect their privacy, although many will be happy to show their lopo homes.
A natural highlight of the area is the large mud volcano, best seen after the rains. Local legend has it that the volcano can smell visitors and can get upset if any walk too close – so keep your distance!
Finally, travelling towards the Sawu Sea opens up another view of the pristine sandy beaches that only rarely receive tourists. Their crystal clear waters thus offer excellent opportunities for snorkelling, diving and swimming.
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