Few places are as mythical and as evocative of the Silk Road as Samarkand, standing in the heart of Uzbekistan. The magnificent monuments and mosques scattered throughout the city have inspired poets and artists for hundreds of years – and continue to do so. Today, Timur’s (Tamerlane) constructions are surrounded by a Soviet-style city, but the Registan and the mausoleums continue to amaze visitors from Central Asia and beyond. Samarkand is one of the three ancient Silk Road cities that remain in Uzbekistan, in addition to Bukhara and Khiva.
Registan
The jewel in the crown of Uzbekistan and in all of Central Asia is Samarkand’s Registan. The three madrassas, with their intricate majolica patterns depicting the stars, nature and Central Asian mythology, spread over a vast space that was once the setting of royal proclamations. But today, the area is bustling with tourism. Ulugbek’s madrassa, located on the western entrance, is richly decorated with astronomical motifs reflecting Ulugbek’s passion for the stars and skies. The Sher Dor madrassa, on the opposite side, depicts felines chasing deer, and is unique in its daring representation of animals despite the Islamic prohibition at the time of construction. Finally, the central Tillakari madrassa features a peaceful courtyard and a mosque covered in gold and blue hues, designed to flaunt Samarkand’s wealth.
Tip: Explore the square early in the day or late at night, and you will enjoy the area with no one else around but the guards. During the night, the madrassas are beautifully lit, offering another unique view of the Registan. Visiting at night is only possible after paying for a second ticket, so try to arrive before sunset while your ‘day’ ticket is still valid and stay until closing time to explore the moonlit courtyards.
Not to miss: Guards may offer tourists an unofficial tour of one of the minarets to catch a one-of-a-kind bird’s eye view of the impressive square.
Gur-e-Amir mausoleum
The final resting place of Timur, one of the greatest conquerors of Central Asia, features iconic blue-ribbed dome, while its interior is bathed in gold. Its light blue tones and starry patterns are reminiscent of the heavens, an apt place for an admired and feared leader. The beauty of this dome even inspired the design of the Taj Mahal in India.
Bibi-Khanym mosque
Built to commemorate the successful capture of Delhi, Bibi-Khanym mosque was one of the largest in its days (for scale, a marble Quran is found in the middle of the mosque). The building was so large that it reached its technological limits and the dome started to crumble even before the construction ended. Due to this, numerous earthquakes have affected this mosque making it less preserved than the others in Samarkand. However, renovations works are underway. The path from Registan to Bibi-Khanym is now a modern pedestrian avenue with plenty of shops that cater primarily to visitors.
Shah-i-Zinda
The walkway of mausoleums of Shah-i-Zinda is one of our favourite sites in Samarkand. Its buildings are covered in blue tile patterns from walls to domes, featuring diverse styles, that create incredibly serene and peaceful place. Such is the beauty of the avenue that the final resting place of one of Timur’s sisters is located here (It is the second one on the left from the entrance).
Afrosiab (museum, hill, and fortress)
Afrosiab, located on the outer edges of the city, is the site of one of the most important archaeological finds in Samarkand – an outstanding fresco depicting King Varkhuman receiving foreign diplomats. The remains of an old fortress can also be explored on the grounds. However, the highlight of a short hike to the top of the Afrosiab fortress is the views of the old city of Samarkand.
Shakhrisabz
Samarkand was heavily reconstructed during the Soviet era, and critics argue that the restorers were very liberal in their interpretation of the old city. Some argue that the heavy reconstruction efforts take away from the charm of the place. For a more ‘authentic’ view of what Samarkand may have looked like before its restoration, head to Shakhrisabz where the impressive portal has been left untouched. It is located around 2 hours drive away from Samarkand beyond the Tien-Shan mountains, and the scenic drive alone is worth the trip.
Buzkashi
During Nowruz (the Persian New Year, usually in late March), the mountain villages near Samarkand occasionally hold buzkashi events. No sport is quite like this heart-stopping game that involves horse-riding, a goat carcass, and a ruthless desire to win!
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