Nestled in a relatively isolated valley of thriving shrubs, medicinal plants and vines, and surrounded by beautiful mountains in every direction, Malinalco feels like a totally different world from Mexico City – despite being only a 2 hours drive away. In Aztec mythology, the goddess Malinalxochitl once chose this place as her home, and her choice has now been endorsed by the Pueblos Magicos (Magical Towns) program. Malinalco offers a genuine travel-through-the-ages experience and can be visited on a daytrip from Mexico City, however, it is best enjoyed as a two-day (or multi-day) trip.
2,000 years ago: rock paintings
The hills and cliffs that surround Malinalco hide beautiful secrets. Perhaps the most impressive of these are the numerous cave paintings and petroglyphs – proving that humans inhabited these lands already before the arrival of Aztecs. Las Caritas (The Little Faces), El Coyote (self-explanatory) and Los Diablitos (The Little Devils) are some of the most characteristic pre-historic features along the cliffs. They can be visited on a guided hike or a bike ride through lush terrains.
500 years ago: the Aztec war house
The temple of Cuauhtinchan, carved on the side of a cliff and overseeing the town of Malinalco, is one of the most impressive monolithic (one-piece) structures in Mesoamerica. The main structure, the House of Eagles, which sits atop the hill, and which can only be reached after walking more than 400 steps, was once a sanctuary for the military elite of the Aztecs and was the site of numerous important rituals – including the initiation for eagle and jaguar warriors. Atop the truncated pyramid lies one of the most elaborate entrances found in Aztec architecture. The door, shaped like the mouth of a serpent gives way to eagle- and jaguar-shaped structures where bloody ceremonies took place. The ruins also offer amazing views of the valley and surrounding areas.
400 years ago: the monastery of outstanding frescoes
Built soon after the arrival of the Spaniards in Mexico, the Augustine ex-monastery of Divino Salvador, located in the center of the town, has an unassuming exterior but an exclusive masterpiece in its interior. Painted in a unique black-and-white format by the indigenous Aztec artists as a form of indirect protest against the Spaniards, the murals which cover the walls of the cloisters depict the Garden of Eden with the flora and fauna that was (and still is) typical of the place. There has been little restoration of the frescoes, but the paintings still remain in almost intact shape.
Today: museums, adventures and ice cream
The town is home to the superb Luis Mario Schneider museum which hosts artefacts found in the valley and its vicinity. The museum also provides an overview of the most important events that took place in the town. A visit of the museum is definitely recommended to gain better insight into town’s history. The town itself is divided into several ‘barrios‘, each of which is adorned with a beautiful church or chapel where important religious events are held. It is rewarding to take a stroll through the colourful streets and stop in the Malinalli ice cream shop to try the town’s famous ‘Flavour of the Gods’ or ‘Kiss of Angel’ ice cream. Finally, Malinalco is also an ideal place for adventurous travellers seeking time in a lush green environment: biking, hiking, horse-riding, and zip-lining are only some of the many options available here.
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