The desert castles of ancient Khorezm, Uzbekistan

The valleys of Khorezm have seen their fair share of brutal and barbaric history. Once, mighty fortresses dotted the landscape, fighting for control of what used to be very fertile lands. While driving through the harsh desert of Khorezm it is very difficult to imagine that this was one of the richest areas in Uzbekistan, providing plentiful food to the settlers and passing caravans. Today, only the most adventurous travellers venture through this dry landscape.

In the past, more than fifty castles stood in this region but fragile mud walls have largely succumbed to the harsh environment through the centuries. Only the ruins of around a dozen of these can be visited today. The most impressive Kalas or Qalas (castles) can be seen in one day, while travelling from Khiva to Nukus (or vice versa).

Ayaz-Kala 

An impressive round fortress that stands high on a hill and offers breathtaking views of the vast desert and of a smaller Kala perched on the top of a nearby hill. This is one of the better preserved Kalas, and local camel herders will offer rides to the castle, while it is also possible to overnight in one of the yurts that are located just at the hill’s footsteps. Camels are capricious animals, so be careful not to be thrown off!

• 

• 

Guldursun Kala 

Probably Khorezm’s largest still standing fortress. Today only the large walls remain, but walking around the fortress gives you a sense of just how massive the structure must have been in its heydays.

Koy Krylgan Kala

A mysterious circular structure. Although little is known about this strange building, archeologists believe it was a temple that also served as one of the first star observatories in the whole Central Asia. 

Toprak Kala

Abandoned in the 6th century, this fortress was likely a palace. The rooms (and the remains of the Zoroastrian temple) are still in good shape and can be visited.

Qizil Kala

Although this fortress was abandoned in the 4th century, it was revived in the 14th century and underwent partial modern restoration. Because of this its remains are one of the better restored kalas in Khorezm. The rooms and the wall are in good shape and the interior can be visited.