In search of the elusive Pantanal jaguar

The Pantanal jaguar has always had a special role in the mythology of Pre-Columbian cultures, who considered it a manifestation of god on earth. With its golden fur, intricate spotted pattern that’s as unique as our fingerprints, powerful bite and agility, few animals are more magnificent than the largest cat in South America.

But the jaguar is also known as a master of stealth: it thrives on seeing while not being seen. Elusive as it is, we decided to head to the Brazilian Pantanal to try to catch sight of the jaguar in its natural habitat.

The Pantanal is the world’s largest wetland, covering an area roughly equivalent to that of the United Kingdom, and stretches over Bolivia, Brazil and Paraguay. In the rainy season nearly 80 percent of the region’s area is submerged allowing unique aquatic vegetation (including the famous giant water lilies) and marine animals to prosper. In the dry winter months, the water recedes and animals head to the scarce water bodies.

One of the best ways to explore the Pantanal is by horseback. After reaching our first pousada (traditional lodging), Piuval Lodge, we headed out to explore the terrain on the sturdy pantaneiro horse – a breed that has adapted to the wet environment through a larger webbed foot, its capacity to digest aquatic plants, and its ability to hold its breath under water. The horse’s unique adaptations were soon put to test when we headed to the marshes. Even when we were ankle-deep (or chest-deep for the horses) in the water, the horses comfortably maneuvered their way through caimans, thick aquatic vegetation, and muddy terrain. However, as soon as we stepped on dry land again, our guide stopped and pointed to the floor, saying “Onça!” – Portuguese for “jaguar”. We saw huge fresh paw prints, indicating that a jaguar had recently roamed the area – our first glimpse of evidence of the Pantanal jaguar! But, other than the remains of an unlucky caiman we did not see the jaguar itself.

It was time to head deeper into the marshy Pantanal. The Transpantaneira Road, a raised dirt road that traverses the northern Pantanal, was our only means of transport in the area (other than planes and boats). After driving for 145 km through a stunning landscape of endless marshes, thick vegetation and occasional capybara family sunbathing on the roadsides, we finally reached the end of the road at the “town” of Porto Jofre. The area surrounding this settlement is known for one of the highest concentrations of wild jaguars in the world and would be our best chance to spot this elusive cat. With rising anticipation we prepared for two days of intensive full-day boat rides which would give us a best chance to see the Pantanal jaguar.

Our alarm sounded at 4:30 am. It was time for a quick (too) early traditional Brazilian breakfast before our “hunt”. The delicious pães de queijo (tapioca cheese balls) were still melting in our mouths when we greeted our cheerful captain and boarded his small motorboat which he drove on the Cuiaba River for the last few decades. We were barely bathed by the first sunrays, when two local fishermen waved our boat and informed us that they had just seen a jaguar not far from where we were! We never expected to see a jaguar so early into our excursion. The captain sensed our eagerness as we headed at full speed to the small island rooted in the middle of the murky river full of hungry piranhas. Through the strong river current, he skillfully maneuvered our boat and moored it in the high reeds not even four meters from the coast. As we waited in complete silence, we exchanged doubtful looks as all we could see was dense jungle understory. Maybe we were just too late and the jaguar already hid deeper in the thick jungle.

Suddenly, a loud roar is heard from behind the nearest bushes! We are overflown with ambivalent feelings – beyond thrilled that a jaguar is just a few meters from us while at the same time being extremely anxious as it would take this agile cat only two big jumps to reach our boat. Even then, no one wants (or dares) to move, it is as if we are hypnotized by the shifting leaves and grass on the island coast. Nothing happens. False alarm. Everything goes quiet and still again.

Without a warning, a jaguar leaps from behind the bushes, baring its intimidating canines, not towards us but to the shifting shadow under a nearby tree. Adrenaline rushes through our veins as we realize that we are witnessing a mating dance between two jaguars! They do not seem to notice us at all as they lovingly bite and lick each other one second, and the next they snap at each other with their sharp teeth and claws. The extraordinary moment passes as swiftly as it came – the numerous tourist’s camera shutters click endlessly as more boats join our spectacle bringing us back to reality and driving the jaguars back into the jungle.

Our luck continued into the rest of our trip. We went on to see three more jaguars and even rare puma cubs as we explored endless river channels of the Cuiaba River. And our last boatride aptly ended in the same way as we began: the two jaguars from our first sighting put on another show, this time openly on a sandy river bank, playing with each other like tame kittens. But all it took was one wrong step by the male jaguar and a fierce fighting began, reminding us all that these are no kittens but wild beasts that demand respect.

It was hard to leave the magical place of Pantanal, though we felt calm knowing that there are still places in this world where jaguars can enjoy their wild home and thrive.

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