Boasting a history dating to the prehistoric era, Antequera is a hidden gem between the tourist hotspots of Malaga and Granada. A city with a white village charm and more churches than you would expect in a place this size (33 to be exact!). What’s more, the town is surrounded by some of the most jaw-dropping karstic landscapes, not only in Spain but in all of Europe.
Antequera is nestled in the heart of Andalusia and is easily reached by bus or train from Sevilla, Malaga, or its more impressive cousin, Granada, making for a perfect day or weekend trip from these cities.
El Torcal de Antequera
El Torcal de Antequera is one of the main reasons to visit the relatively unknown city of Antequera. High above the Andalusian plains, at around 1,400 m, you will find yourself surrounded by unusual rock formations that have seen quite some history: from the prehistoric caves to the bandits and smugglers who used the labyrinthine valleys as a hiding place. Although the caves are not accessible for safety reasons, you can hike one of the two trails through the vast limestone outcrops that have been eroded into a mind-boggling landscape. The shorter trail, which can be completed in approximately 40-60 minutes, provides a quick overview of the mountain range. For the slightly more adventurous, there is a longer two-hour hike. If you are lucky, a Spanish ibex or two may be looking down at you from the rocks. If you are not so lucky, you can still enjoy abundant birds who are lucky to call this place their home and the lush vegetation.
It is not recommended to go off the trails, as it is very easy to get lost, but you should not miss the chance to take a small detour at the end of the trail to see a collection of fossilised ammonites and really understand the weight of history this place holds. Not far from the parking lot, one of the most emblematic features of the park – El Tornillo – can be seen. Also, don’t leave without enjoying the magnificent views from the Mirador de las Ventanillas. On a good day you can even see Africa from this viewpoint!
A mere 13 km away from the city centre, several taxis offer a fixed rate of around 35-40 euros for a ride to the park and back, including one hour of waiting.
Antequera
Antequera was one of the first places to be ‘re-conquered’ by Ferdinand I and became an important outpost of Spanish Catholicism. The mosques that once abounded here were replaced by countless churches. The only remaining vestige of Antequera’s Moorish past is the Alcazaba sitting atop the town. From the Alcazaba, you can enjoy sweeping views, not only of the city itself but also the emblematic Pena de los Enamorados – a face-shaped mountain full of legends. Going further back in time, Roman ruins are scattered throughout the city and the surrounding areas.
Today, Antequera is a relaxed city which rewards visitors with stunning walks through its small, cobbled streets that ooze history. Stop at one of the local bars for some delicious traditional tapas that have not been influenced by the tourist taste! One of the must-try treats is the traditional mollete of Antequera (a type of bread).
Dolmens
But the history of Antequera does not stop in the Roman era. The area was a popular settlement since prehistoric times. Some of the oldest and largest dolmens (monolithic burial sites) in Europe are found just outside the city centre. The Dolmen de Menga, Viera (located next to each other) and Romeral (some 4 kilometres from the city centre) date back to the third millennium BC. Although today the dolmens are empty architectural wonders, when they were discovered in the 19the century several hundred skeletons were found inside.
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