No one can deny the splendour of Granada and the magnificent Alhambra, but those who want a break from countless tourists can head to the nearby and much more laid-back district of Guadix. The eroded landscape around Guadix alone is enough to justify a visit, but you should not miss the numerous cave dwellings, emblematic castles, and prehistoric dolmens. Guadix is still relatively unknown and most visitors come on short day-trips but a longer visit can be extremely gratifying.
Guadix: cave dwellings
Evocative of Tolkien’s hobbit homes, the iconic cave houses of the barrio de las cuevas in Guadix (a mere 45 minute bus ride from Granada) take you back in time. The barrio’s main features are the hand-carved houses dug into the hills, keeping a pleasant temperature indoors year-round. It is hard to take a picture that accurately captures the allure of the town, but you can try your best at one of several viewpoints. Two of the best are Mirador de Padre Poveda close to the Cave Church and Mirador Cerro de las Balas. The area is best explored by foot, but there is also an option to take a tourist train from the city centre. The newer city centre also deserves a visit: the Catedral de Guadix and the Moorish fortress (Alcazaba) show an interesting mixture of cultures, common throughout Andalusia.
Tip: For a memorable local experience, overnight in one of the numerous cave houses.
La Calahorra: the unconquered fortress
With the impressive Sierra Nevada mountain range as a background the renaissance Castillo de La Calahorra is an extremely picture-worthy stop. The castle is in private hands and is only open to the public once a week, so chances to see its iron and marble interior are slim. Even if you miss the opportunity to see the interior, a stroll around this unusual Italian-style castle is rewarding. Pay attention to the remaining ruins of the wall and the strategically placed arrow-slits that ensured that this castle would never be conquered.
Gorafe: dolmens and badlands
Take a short trip from Guadix (a 20 minute drive) to the heart of Spain’s Neolithic culture in Gorafe. The landscape is scattered with over 200 megalithic burial sites known as dolmens. Many are located close to the main roads and can be easily reached. For those wanting to learn more about the history of the dolmens there is an impressive interpretation centre in the town. Gorafe is nestled in a fascinating landscape that is reminiscent of the settings of the Wild West movies. You can also see ancient cave dwellings on the cliffs of the canyons. On the village itself, make sure to go to the viewpoint of the Virgin of Fatima, which offers splendid views of the entire town and the desert-like canyon.
Tip: You can also visit the old cliff caves by taking a small trail behind the graveyard.
Are there any tours including these area s if one doesn’t drive?
Hey, the best way to get to Guadix is by bus from Granada. Once you are in Guadix you don’t need a car to explore the center of town and its cave houses. You can move easily by foot. For Calahorra and the Gorafe area, you will need a vehicle – often the hotel owners will offer a private tour. We stayed at Cueva La Ermita, and the owner kindly offered to take us on a tour of the surrounding area for around 50 euros.