The massive walls of Khiva inspired and terrified Silk Road travellers throughout the centuries. Laying on a fertile oasis next to the Amu-Darya river and surrounded by the deadly desert, this medieval city attracted the riches of the Silk Road caravans as well as envy from neighbouring khans and desert robbers. Having being in such spotlight, Khiva was destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout history. And although the impressive walls still guard Khiva, visitors can now admire the wealth of the khans of Khiva without fearing for their lives.
In the past, such journeys were extremely tough – deadly, even. Water shortages and armed robberies were common occurrences. Today, however, a comfortable car journey through the Khorezm desert will take you to the remains of fortresses dating all the way back to the period of Alexander the Great before reaching the great Khiva. And if continuing your way beyond this city, you will reach Karakalpakstan – the westernmost province of Uzbekistan that is home to the Aral Sea (or what is left of it) and the most peculiar collection of avant-garde art.
The inner city of Khiva
The splendour of Itchon-Kala, the City within the Walls, is what attracts visitors to Khiva. The old town’s charm lies in its medieval streets lined with ancient mosques and palaces which have changed little through the centuries. There are local sellers offering everything from knick-knack souvenirs to beautiful hand-made silk carpets, copper coffee mugs, metal bread stamps, traditional needlework and extremely warm hand-made chugirma hats (a unique traditional sheepskin headwear for Khorezmian men). Strolling through the streets brings you exciting anticipation of what might be hiding just around the next corner.
The best light is in the early mornings and late afternoons, when the low sun bathes the adobe buildings of the town in a warm glow, making it a photographer’s dream!
Tip: Head to the Khiva Silk Workshop where you can observe women weaving shimmering silk carpets featuring unique historical patterns – a tradition that has not changed in centuries. You might even buy one of these treasures to decorate your home.
Tosh-Hovli Palace
Located in the old town, the labyrinthine interior of the palace, containing more than 150 rooms and 9 courtyards, is richly decorated with blue tiles that form geometric patterns, carved wooden pillars, and colourful ceiling paintings. The most jaw-dropping portion is the south wing which houses the throne room.
Kuhna Ark
Located on the left of the Western Gate, Kuhna Ark was the khans’ own fortress and residence. The throne room and the tile-rich portico are simply exquisite, but the most extraordinary experience is climbing the watchtower to marvel at the views over the whole city and the walls that the khans once enjoyed.
Juma mosque
Few other points in the inner city offers a better view of Khiva than the minaret of Juma mosque, however endless steps to the top might make you break a sweat. The mosque itself is famous for its 218 carved wooden pillars, not two alike, that support the roof; a handful of these even date to the 10th century!
Kalta-Minor
One of the most iconic spots in the old town is Kalta-Minor, the emerald-tiled “fat and short” minaret. According to local lore, the khan of Khiva wanted to create a minaret so tall that he could see his rival khan in Bukhara from the top. This ambitious project was never completed, but the foundation of the minaret and its intricate tile designs can be still enjoyed today.
The walls of the city
While in Bukhara the walls that protected the inner city from invaders are fragmented, in Khiva the massive walls are almost entirely preserved. It is possible to walk on some portions of the wall, just like the old guards would have during the middle ages.
Isfandiyar Palace
Outside of the city walls, the peculiar palace combines the Art Nouveau French style with traditional local geometric patterns. Isfandiyar might feel a bit out of place due to its style, but is definitely worth seeing.
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