The world’s largest wetland is quickly becoming known as the best place in South America to spot wildlife, offering more intimate experiences than the Amazon. Even though the Pantanal is home to less species than the Amazon, the short grass makes it easier to spot animals. Many of Brazil‘s charismatic animals call the Pantanal their home – from the jabiru stork to the rhea, from anacondas to caimans, and from the capybara to the tapir. But what attracts visitors is the unparalleled opportunity to see jaguars in the wild.
The Brazilian Pantanal stretches over two states, Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul. Better accommodation options, more rough road conditions and the best chances to see jaguars make the North Pantanal a more enticing option, although the southern Pantanal also offers excellent wildlife experiences. Management from the park authorities and the inhabitants of the area (primarily cattle ranchers) have ensured effective conservation efforts of this area and its wildlife. During a visit to the Pantanal, travelers will have a great option to stay at one of the rustic pousadas (lodges) run by cattle ranchers offering delicious meals, including our favorite pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese puffs).
Recommended time of visit: Wildlife is unpredictable – at least 5 full days are needed to explore the Pantanal and maximize chances for spotting some of the more elusive animals. The best time to visit is during the dry season (June to October) when animals head to the scarcer water bodies and are more easily spotted. However, if you would like to extend your visit to the region, do not miss a short visit to Nobres, where one can swim in crystal-clear jungle waters full of numerous fishes while watching colorful macaws flying above, or a visit to Chapada dos Guimarães National Park, which offers numerous hiking options through its towering rock formations and plentiful waterfalls.
Exploring North Pantanal through the Transpantaneira Highway
Poconé, located 100 km away from Cuiabá, is the gateway to the Pantanal. Poconé is a small town, and is the last place to stock on supplies (especially water) before heading to the depths of the largest wetland on the planet. After Poconé, the asphalt road comes to an abrupt end and becomes the Transpantaneira Highway: a raised dirt road of approximately 145 km which ends at the Cuiaba River. Animals can be seen at any point on the drive, though they are most active in the early morning and late evening when the weather is more forgiving.
In addition, cattle ranchers use the Highway to move thousands of their cows to new pastures. The cattle is accompanied by horse-riding gauchos (South American cowboys) who skillfully herd their animals over hundreds of kilometers. This can be quite a sight!
Tip: To best experience the Pantanal, we recommend driving on Transpantaneira for 3 days, staying at lodges near the beginning, then the middle and finally at the end of the Highway – each offering different wildlife encounters and insights into various ecosystems.
Tip: It is best to visit the region with a tour operator. We can highly recommend Gasparetour; beside great organizational skills and extreme friendliness, they are especially talented in spotting animals for you to see and will go far and beyond to ensure you’ll have a great experience in Pantanal. Around Porto Jofre there are also a number of floating hotels (flotels) which also organize tours on the Cuiaba and Piquiri Rivers to try to spot jaguars, if that is your main aim of visiting Pantanal.
The beginning of the Transpantaneira: The first animal encounters
You won’t have to go far to see your first animals in the Pantanal. There are a few pousadas located near the beginning of the Transpantaneira. We recommend Pousada Piuval , a top-notch lodge with expansive open terrains offering perfect opportunities to spot caimans, capybaras, rheas, macaws, and even shy foxes immediately after stepping out of your room! Early morning and night (both car, horse and walking) safaris provide the best opportunities to spot some of the more elusive animals.
Observation towers on the property offer excellent opportunities to view the water-covered landscape from above. While at the lodge, do not forget to take a horse ride across the swampy terrain. The horses, special pantaneiro breed, are uniquely adapted to walking on mud with their wide hooves and allow visitors to explore more remote parts of the area making for a truly unforgettable experience. They are also excellently trained and won’t get scared if a cayman appears from the water just next to you!
The mid-Transpantaneira: The deep Pantanal
As you drive further on the Transpantaneira, the terrain is more untouched and there are fewer and fewer cattle ranches and lodging options. Staying at Pousada Rio Claro offers an opportunity to experience some of the deeper parts of the Pantanal. The property includes a number of ecological trails that transverse diverse ecosystems from heavy jungle-like forests to open savannas all providing great opportunities to see wildlife, even jaguars are often seen in this area. A highlight in this lodge is taking an early morning canoe ride on the nearby slow-flowing river to try to get close to the giant otters. These curious creatures will loudly announce your arrival as soon as they spot you and will try to get a better look at their new visitor. With some luck, you will also see numerous species of birds that like to hang out next to the river and even hawks catching fish from the river.
The end of the Transpantaneira: Jaguar Haven
The last stretch of the Pantanal is undoubtedly the most remote and rugged, and can be only explored by a boat. At the end of the 145-km dirt road is Porto Jofre, the best base for jaguar encounters. Hotel Pantanal Norte is an excellent lodge with experienced boat drivers and easy access to the Cuiabá River, where finding a jaguar is not only possible but highly likely if you visit during the dry season. Caimans (the main prey of the jaguars), capybaras and giant otters are also common on the shores of the river. The behavior of the jaguars is completely unpredictable, but with some luck they may be seen walking on the sandy beaches of the river, mating on the shores, or even fighting each other in an attempt to establish themselves as the masters of the area. The Cuiabá River connects with the Piquirí River, a slightly more remote region with far fewer explorers. The highlight here, in addition to potential jaguar sightings, is the chance to spot the even more elusive tapir – or with a lot of luck, ocelot or the puma.
Few wildlife encounters are as fascinating as seeing jaguars in their natural environment. Check out more jaguar photos and read about our experience here.
Leave a Reply